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Perfume glossary

Every term you are likely to see on a box or in a description, explained in a sentence or two.

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Strength and format

  • Parfum / extrait de parfum. The most concentrated common format.
  • Eau de parfum (EDP). Usually less concentrated than parfum and more than eau de toilette.
  • Eau de toilette (EDT). A lighter strength than eau de parfum.
  • Eau de cologne (EDC). One of the lightest strengths.
  • Eau fraîche / body mist. A very light format.
  • Perfume oil. Fragrance in an oil carrier instead of alcohol, usually applied by roller or dab.
  • Solid perfume. Fragrance in a wax or balm base.
  • Tester. A bottle intended for in-store trial, sometimes sold without the retail box.
  • Decant. A smaller amount poured from a full bottle into a sample vial or atomizer.

Strength names have no legal standard and vary by brand. See perfume concentrations.

Structure

  • Note. A smell you can pick out, named after something familiar.
  • Top, heart, and base notes. The first, middle, and longest-lasting layers.
  • Accord. Several materials blended to create one new impression, like a chord in music.
  • Dry down. How a perfume smells once the top notes have faded.
  • Linear. A perfume that changes little from start to finish.
  • Flanker. A new version of an existing perfume, often with "intense" or a season in the name.

How it wears

  • Longevity. How long a scent remains noticeable on skin.
  • Sillage. French for "wake". How far the scent travels around you.
  • Projection. How strongly a scent radiates from your skin, especially early on.
  • Skin scent. A perfume that sits very close to the body.
  • Olfactory fatigue. When your nose stops noticing a smell it has been exposed to for a while.

Families and styles

  • Floral, amber, woody, fresh. The four broad families.
  • Chypre. Citrus top, floral heart, mossy woody base.
  • Fougère. Lavender, coumarin, and moss.
  • Gourmand. Edible-smelling notes such as vanilla, caramel, and coffee.
  • Aldehydic. Featuring aldehydes, materials that can add a sparkling, soapy, or waxy lift.
  • Powdery. Soft, dry, cosmetic-like, often from iris, violet, or certain musks.

Ingredients and labels

  • Absolute. A concentrated plant extract made with solvents.
  • Essential oil. A plant extract usually made by steam distillation or, for citrus, pressing.
  • Synthetic (aroma chemical). A fragrance material made in a lab. Many modern perfumes rely on them.
  • IFRA. The International Fragrance Association, which publishes industry safety Standards for fragrance materials.
  • Parfum (on an ingredient list). The EU label term for the fragrance blend. In the US, the label usually says "fragrance".
  • PAO symbol. An open jar with a number of months, used on EU labels to show how long a product keeps after opening.

General information, not medical advice. Patch test new fragrances and stop use if irritation occurs. See a doctor about skin reactions or breathing concerns.

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